EV 101

⚡EV BASICS

Electric Vehicle (EV)

Any vehicle powered fully or partly by electricity instead of gasoline or diesel.

💡 Think of it as a giant smartphone on wheels — it runs on a battery you charge at home or at a station.

Battery Electric Vehicle (BEV)

A 100% electric car with no gasoline engine whatsoever. It runs entirely on a battery pack.

💡 Pure electric, zero tailpipe. Examples: Tesla Model 3, BYD Atto 3, Nissan Leaf.

Plug-In Hybrid (PHEV)

A hybrid car with a battery large enough to plug in and charge — drive on electricity for short trips, switch to gas for longer ones.

💡 Like having a backup generator. You use electricity most of the time, but gasoline is always ready when you need more range.

Hybrid Electric Vehicle (HEV)

A car with both a gasoline engine and an electric motor, but you can't plug it in. It charges its own small battery through braking.

💡 The electric part helps the gas engine — but you still fill up at a petrol station like normal.

Internal Combustion Engine (ICE)

The traditional gasoline or diesel engine found in non-electric cars. EV enthusiasts use 'ICE' when comparing old-school cars to EVs.

💡 Everything that isn't an EV, basically. Your typical Vios, Hilux, or Civic runs an ICE.

🔋BATTERY & CHARGING

Kilowatt-Hour (kWH)

The unit used to measure your EV's battery size and charging energy. More kWh = more range.

💡 Think of kWh as the size of your fuel tank. A 60 kWh battery is a larger tank than a 40 kWh one.

Range

How far your EV can travel on a full charge. Affected by speed, weather, air conditioning use, and driving style.

💡 Same as 'full tank range' in a gas car — except EV range can vary more based on how you drive.

Battery Capacity

The total energy your battery can store. Most Philippine-market EVs range from 40–100+ kWh. Note: usable capacity is slightly less than total, as EVs protect the top and bottom of the battery.

💡 Battery capacity is your fuel tank size. A bigger number means more kilometers before your next charge.

Driving Range: NEDC vs WLTP

NEDC is an older lab test giving optimistic range numbers — often 20–30% higher than real life. WLTP is the newer, more realistic standard. Always look for the WLTP figure when comparing EVs.

💡 NEDC is the brand's best-case ad claim. WLTP is closer to what you'll actually get on EDSA.

Battery Type

The chemistry that powers your EV's battery pack. Most common: NMC (Nickel Manganese Cobalt) — high energy density, longer range. LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate) — safer, longer lifespan, handles 100% daily charging better.

💡 NMC is like a high-performance racing fuel — great output, needs more care. LFP is like diesel — reliable, tough, fill it up every day without worry.

Range Anxiety

The fear of running out of battery before reaching a charger. Very common among new EV owners, but usually fades once you know your car's real-world range.

💡 Like checking your gas gauge every 10 minutes. Most EV owners say it disappears after the first few weeks.

State of Charge (SOC)

The current battery percentage — your EV's version of the fuel gauge.

💡 100% SoC = full battery. 20% SoC = time to find a charger soon.

Battery Degradation

The gradual loss of battery capacity over time and charge cycles. For example, a 5-year-old EV may hold 85–90% of its original range.

💡 Like your phone battery after 2 years — it still works, but doesn't last as long as day one.

AC & DC Charging

AC (Alternating Current) charging — at home or most malls — is slower (3.3–22 kW) but gentle on the battery. DC (Direct Current) fast charging delivers power directly to the battery — much faster (50–350 kW) but best used occasionally, not daily.

💡 AC is a slow drip — perfect overnight. DC fast charging is a fire hose — great for road trips, but not something you want every single day.

Level 1 Charging

Charging via a standard household outlet (220V in the Philippines). Very slow — adds roughly 5–15 km of range per hour.

💡 Like drinking through a coffee stirrer. It works, but it's painfully slow. Best for overnight top-ups.

Level 2 Charging

A dedicated home or public charger (typically 7–22 kW). Charges most EVs fully in 4–10 hours.

💡 Your everyday charger at home or the mall parking lot. Plug in when you arrive, full tank when you leave.

DC Fast Charging

High-speed public charging (50–350 kW) that can add significant range in 20–45 minutes.

💡 The gas station equivalent for EVs. Great for road trips but not ideal for daily use due to cost and battery wear.

Maximum Charge Rate

The fastest speed your EV can accept charge, measured in kW. If your car's max AC rate is 11 kW but you plug into a 22 kW charger, it still only charges at 11 kW — the car, not the charger, sets the limit.

💡 A pipe can only carry as much water as its opening allows. Even the most powerful charger is capped by what your car can accept.

Charger Type / Connector

The physical plug your EV uses to charge. Common in PH: CCS2 (most modern EVs, AC + DC), CHAdeMO (Nissan, Mitsubishi), Type 2 (AC-only), GB/T (some Chinese EVs). Always check before buying.

💡 Like phone chargers — USB-C, Lightning, micro-USB. Your EV has its own plug, and the charger at the mall needs to match.

Wall Charger vs Portable Charger

A Wall Charger (EVSE) is fixed at home — faster (7–22 kW), best for daily use. A Portable Charger plugs into a regular outlet — much slower (1.4–3.3 kW) but works anywhere there's a socket.

💡 Wall charger is a dedicated fuel pump in your garage. Portable charger is a jerry can — slow, but it saves you in a pinch.

Regenerative Braking

A system that recovers energy when you slow down or brake, converting it back into battery charge.

💡 Every time you brake, you're earning a tiny bit of range back. Like getting cashback for slowing down.

One Pedal Driving

A mode where lifting off the accelerator slows the car significantly via strong regenerative braking — often enough to stop without touching the brake pedal.

💡 Push to go, release to slow. Takes 30 minutes to get used to, then you'll never want to go back.

Vehicle-to-Load (V2L)

A feature that lets your EV power appliances or gadgets directly from the car's battery via a standard 220V outlet. Great for camping, work sites, or brownouts.

💡 Plug your electric fan, laptop, or rice cooker directly into your car. During a Meralco outage, your EV becomes your backup generator.

🚘PERFORMANCE & POWERTRAIN

Electric Motor Type

The kind of electric motor inside your EV. Most common: Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motor (PMSM) — efficient and powerful, used in most modern EVs. AC Induction Motor — simpler and durable, used by older Teslas. Motor type affects efficiency, power delivery, and driving feel.

💡 Same job, different character. PMSM is like a refined turbo; induction is like a reliable naturally aspirated.

Transmission Type (Direct Drive)

Most EVs use a single-speed direct drive — no gears to shift, no clutch, no CVT. The electric motor's wide power range means it doesn't need multiple gear ratios. Some performance EVs have a 2-speed setup, but it's rare.

💡 Gas cars need gears because engines only work well in a narrow RPM range. An EV motor works great at any speed — so one 'gear' is all it needs. That's why EV acceleration feels so smooth.

Max Power (Ps / Kw)

The peak output of your EV's motor, shown in kW (kilowatts) or PS (metric horsepower). 1 PS ≈ 0.74 kW. Unlike gas engines, EVs deliver this power almost instantly — no rev-building needed.

💡 150 kW ≈ 204 PS ≈ ~201 hp. More kW = stronger acceleration. In EVs, that power hits the moment you press the pedal.

Max Torque (Nm)

Torque is the rotational force that moves the car, measured in Newton-meters (Nm). EVs produce maximum torque from 0 RPM — the instant you press the accelerator — which is why even modest EVs feel quick off the line.

💡 Torque is what pushes you into your seat. A gas car has to rev up to get there; an EV gives you all of it the moment you touch the pedal.

Over-The-Air Update (OTA)

Software updates delivered wirelessly to your EV — like a phone update — that can improve features, fix bugs, or add new capabilities overnight.

💡 Your car gets smarter while you sleep. No trip to the dealership needed.

Vehicle-To-Grid (V2G)

Technology that allows your EV to send stored electricity back to the power grid or your home — turning your car into a mobile power bank.

💡 Your EV becomes a giant power bank. During a brownout, some EVs can power your house for hours.

Battery Management System (BMS)

The computer system inside your EV that monitors and manages the battery — controlling temperature, charge rate, and protecting battery health.

💡 Like a caretaker for your battery. It makes sure nothing gets too hot, too cold, overcharged, or over-drained.

Frunk

Front trunk — the storage compartment under the hood where the engine would be in a gas car. Many EVs have one as bonus storage.

💡 Free extra space up front, because there's no engine taking up room

💸BUYING & OWNING

Total Cost of Ownership (TCO)

The full cost of owning a car over time — purchase price plus fuel, maintenance, insurance, and depreciation. EVs often win here versus gas cars over a 5-year period.

💡 An EV might cost more upfront, but less electricity + less maintenance = often cheaper overall. Think of the long game.

EV Incentive

Government discounts, tax breaks, or rebates offered to encourage EV adoption. In the Philippines, EVs are exempt from several taxes and fees under the EVIDA Law.

💡 The government giving you a discount for choosing the greener option.

Battery Warranty

A manufacturer guarantee covering battery capacity for a set period (typically 8 years or 160,000 km). Protects you if the battery degrades below a threshold (usually ~70%).

💡 If the battery drops too low within the warranty period, the manufacturer replaces it for free. Peace of mind included.

Residual Value

How much your EV is worth after a few years. EVs with strong brand reputations tend to hold their value better.

💡 What you'd get if you sold your EV 3–5 years later. Worth factoring in before you buy.

Key Parts: ICE, HEV, PHEV, & EV

What's under the hood? (or where the hood used to be) Depends on which type of electrified vehicle you own. Here's a quick breakdown:

Component

ICE

HEV

PHEV

BEV

Petrol / Diesel Engine

Electric Motor

Small Hybrid Battery

Large Rechargeable Battery

Plug-In / External Charging

Fuel Tank

Regenerative Braking

Tailpipe Emissions

✅

✅

✅

❌

❌

✅

✅

✅

❌

✅

❌

❌

❌

❌

✅

✅

❌

❌

✅

✅

❌

✅

✅

✅

❌

✅

✅

✅

💨

📉

📉

🍃

💡 Think of it as a spectrum — from full petrol (ICE) to full electric (BEV), with HEV and PHEV as stepping stones in between. More electric = fewer moving parts = less to maintain.

Maintenance: ICE vs HEV vs PHEV vs BEV

One of the biggest practical differences between vehicle types is what you'll spend time and money on at the service center — or won't.

Maintenance Item

ICE

HEV

PHEV

BEV

Oil Changes

Transmission Service

Spark Plugs

Brake Pads

Battery Maintenance

Coolant / Radiator

Air Filter

Exhaust System

Overall Service Cost

❌

🟠

✅

Legend:

✅ - Has this component; required
🟠 - Partial / Reduced
❌ - Does not have; not needed

🟠

✅

✅

🟠

🟠

🟠

🟠

❌

❌

✅

🟠

🟠

🟠

❌

🟠

✅

🟠

✅

✅

✅

✅

✅

✅

✅

✅

✅

❌

🟠

❌

📈

💡 BEVs have roughly 20 moving parts in their drivetrain versus 2,000+ in a petrol car. Fewer parts = fewer things to break. In the Philippines, BEV owners typically only need tire rotations, wiper replacements, brake fluid, coolant, and cabin air filter changes for routine servicing.

📈

📉

📈

The Complexity Between Systems

ICE: One system; traditional mechanical machine

HEV: Two systems; gas car with electric assistance

PHEV: Two full systems; electric car with a gasoline backup

BEV: One system; fully electric machine

👀 See you at the GUIDES section for more information, application, and insights about these terms. ⚡👍